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Kit Hill Quarry
Rusty Ring Route   8m   Very Difficult   (20-07-2013)
Facing Starter Slab [see page 56 of the guidebook] on the far right is and easy corner/arête and further round is a wall. Climb the wall to about one third height, move leftwards onto the arête and continue up to a grassy ledge. Finish up the short wall above. Belay from an old rusty ring about three metres back.
F.A. Rob Bogue, Katie Hammond, 20th July 2013.

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Gold Diggings Quarry
No additions since the last guide.
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Cheesewring Quarry
The Southern Outcrop
(See pages 68 and 69 in the definitive guide.)
Destruction in a Granite Setting   9m   Font. 7B [or V8 if you prefer]   (27-04-2013)
Climb the vague groove between
Half Route Half Boulder Problem and Central Corner/Pink Panther. Just before the overlap move right to a block and back left through the overlap left of a bush.
F.A. Tom Bunn (solo), 27th April 2013.
[Tom climbed this as a boulder problem with Alex Orr spotting (and presumably above pads) so chose not to give it a route grade, although it probably does deserve one.]

The Main Face (Central Bay)
(See page 93 of the guidebook.) Real Live Wire (F7b) (7 bolts) and Wring the Changes (F7b+) (5 bolts) have both been re-equipped with new stainless steel bolts (May 2013).
Talking Heads   28m   F7b   (26-05-2013)
A free version of the old aid climb
Super Indirect (page 95). Start as for Real Live Wire to the mid-height ledges where a technical and exciting traverse leads rightwards, under the mid-height overhangs, through Psychokiller and into Wring the Changes. Move up for two metres then right, following the the hanging slab, to the arête. Finish at the lower-off above (11 bolts).
F.F.A. Tom Bunn, 26th May 2013. Belayed by Alex Orr.

Wring the Changes Extension *   25m   F7c   (16-06-2013)
An extension to
Wring the Changes adding a pumpy boulder problem finish to the route. Follow Wring the Changes until near the Psychokiller lower-off, then head right past an extra bolt to finish at the lower-off of Talking Heads (6 bolts).
F.A. Tom Bunn, 16th July 2013. Belayed by Alex Orr.

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Nare Head
The following route is located between The Thumb and The Rosen Cliff (see page 216 in the guide).
Finger Ridge *   65m   Very Severe   (27-06-2013)
A novel outing. 200 metres east of The Thumb  – which is best reached from the ‘summit’ of
the headland by taking a path which descends diagonally eastwards – a slender pinnacle
forms the start of a ridge. Start below the cleft on the east side.
1: 25m 4b. Climb cracks to the chimney formed by the pinnacle and ascend this to the
summit (headstand optional). Continue along the crest of the ridge above to big block belays.
2: 20m 4a. Climb the short crack and slab above then trend right to belays beneath the upper
buttress.
3: 20m 4c. Follow the obvious cracks till steep but well-protected climbing gains a finishing
jug. A belay block near the edge should be backed up with other belays much higher.
Descent can be made from here by taking a faint path westwards then descending the slope to arrive close to The Thumb.
F.A. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner, Des Hannigan, Dave Hope, 27th June 2013.

Carbilly Tor
No additions since the last guide.
Sharp Tor
No additions since the last guide.
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Bearah Tor
No additions since the last guide.
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Kilmar Tor
The following micro-route is in the Trig Point Area (guidebook pages 122 & 123) and takes
the wall and roof left of the very highball problem
An Arête (pictured right).
Wye I Climb   7m   E2 6b   (15-06-2013)
Climb up the break on the far left to gain the large break. Traverse right to good holds in the
upper break just right of centre. A small overlap on the right provides a slopping hold before
a very rounded top. There is a good hold further back once you have gained enough height
and stability to reach for it.
F.A. Sean Hawken (roped solo), 15th June 2013.

NOTE: This is listed as E3 elsewhere (which may well be correct!) but Sean comments: “I think E2 or even E1 tops. Lets face it, you could solo it safely with mats. I took my last chance, for the foreseeable future, to climb at Kilmar Tor and climbed this line in the rain just before leaving for Wales to live, and therefore the top seemed absolutely desperate, however on a dry day with a cool breeze?”... Sounds like a repeat ascent is needed.
Eastern Turret Chimley   8m   Difficult   (09-06-2013)
Found on the north side of the Eastern Turret [page 118 of the guidebook]. Start at a flake below a small rowan tree. Monkey up the flake to tackle the vegetation above. Then climb the chimney. One for lovers of esoterica.
F.A. Richard Hudson (solo), 9th June 2013.

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Trewortha Tor
No additions since the last guide.
Hawk’s Tor
No additions since the last guide.
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St Clether Crags
Clederus   24m   Very Severe 4b   (22-02-2014)
Start at the far left-hand side of the crag as for
Another Tick in the Ball.
1: 9m –. Traverse rightwards to the top of
Not So Clether. Belay.
2: 15m 4b. Descend the arête and move across a patch of vegetation to reach the slab of
Innyhow and then the corner of Minny-Digger [descriptions of these two routes below]. Move across the steep pocketed wall to reach the arête of Cletherette. Cross the main wall staying just below the big loose block and climb through the overlap of No More Mosstakes to finish.
F.A. Richard Hudson, J. Rudman, 22nd February 2014.

These following two routes are found on the Main Crag, to the left of the recessed bay, between Not So Clether and Clether Dick (see page 148 of the current guide).
Innyhow   6m   Difficult   (21-10-2012)
The ‘cleaned’ wall and slab left of the obvious corner.
F.A. Richard Hudson (solo), 21st October 2012.
Minny-Digger   6m   Difficult   (29-09-2012)
Bridge either side of the wide earth-filled corner crack in the left-hand side of the main crag.
F.A. Richard Hudson (solo), 29th September 2012.
Rough Tor
No additions since the last guide.
Devil’s Jump
No additions since the last guide.
Helman Tor
No additions since the last guide.
Roche Rock
Cerro FitzRoche   6m   Hard Very Severe 5b   (06-04-2014)
A micro-route or highball with a bad landing taking the steep front face of the right-hand block (looking in) below
National Diploma in Outdoor Education [page 188 of current guide]. The steep front face of the pillar left of Sparkle Motion. Small wires in the crack.
F.R.A. Tom Last and Hernan Cardenas Ibanez, 6th April 2014. Climbed on-sight.

Sparkle Motion   6m   E1 5b   (18-02-2014)
A micro-route – solo or highball (would be V1 but the landing is very bad) – Start from the obvious jug on the arête and break, right of
Cerro FitzRoche, and climb the face via the scooped arête.
F.R.A. Tom Last (solo), 18th February 2014.

Luxulyan Valley
The Lost World Quarry (Carbeans Quarry)
No additions since the last guide.
The Eaves (approximate grid ref. OS Explorer Map 107 SX 057 585)
This bouldering area has been developed since the publication of the most recent guide to South East Cornwall (2012). It is located across the valley from the Black Hill Car Park. From the car park walk across the Treffry Viaduct and turn right on leaving the bridge and follow a leat for about 50 metres or so until the leat bends left. At this point go straight ahead following through bushes downhill to reach a small and insignificant quarry. The first problem Cave Crack, is found on a small cave on the right. The Riverflow is a bit further around to the right beside the river on a large quarried block. For the other problems, cross the river into private land. The problems skirt the eaves of the wood, starting on the far left (when standing with back to the river) with several large unclimbed blocks, then some way right is the Cracked Arête block; further right still by the corner of the field behind a quarry is Who Knows Where the Time Goes and Red Right Hand. All problems were first climbed by Tom Last with the exception of Time Marches On which was climbed by Todd Berryman.
Cave Crack V0. Climb out of the cave and up via the crack, eliminating nothing, but it’s still not very good!
The Riverflow V3. A good problem up the flakes on the lefthand side of the quarried block.
Right of Riverflow VB. Ramp.
Cracked Arête V0-. Climb the crack from sitter, then the arête through a small jungle. Rubbish.
Red Right Hand V2. A good problem following the overhanging layback arête to top out at the apex.
Who Knows Where the Time Goes * V4 6a (29-04-2013). Another excellent Luxulyan highball slab. Quite scary and sustained. Start on the large foothold on the left then follow very small crystals to top-out direct at the apex.
Time Marches On V0 (Todd Berryman 29-04-2013) The shoulder left of Who Knows Where the Time Goes.
Carmears Rocks
The following route is found on an outcrop next to the Fowey Consols Leat and just below Forest Moon Buttress (page 201 in the definitive guide).
Leat Flake   8m   Very Difficult   (23-08-2012)
Climb the obvious flake in the face above and to the left of the bridge over the leat.
F.A. Tom Last (solo), 23rd August 2012, on-sight solo – possibly done before.

These next two routes sit uphill and a little right of Forest Moon Buttress (page 201 in the definitive guide), close to the eaves of the wood. Both routes are relatively clean but it’s possible that a little more cleaning on Sarlacc could render it a bit easier or expose some protection possibilities.
Sarlacc   7m   Very Difficult   (04-09-2012)
The chunky vein left of
The Kessel Run gives an undignified solo.
F.A. Tom Last (solo), 4th September 2012, on-sight solo.

The Kessel Run   8m   Hard Very Severe 4c   (07-09-2012)
Climb straight up the boldish slab located up the slope and right of
Millennium Falcon. Quite eliminate but good climbing. Small cams protect.
F.A. Tom Last, Tom Bunn, 7th September 2012, led after cleaning.

The following additions are found on The Pinnacles at Carmears Rocks (page 201 in the definitive guide).
Loverly Finger Jamming Niceness   10m   Very Severe 5a   (18-10-2012)
Start left of
Sheela-Na-Gig below a roof, gain the roof and follow the crack to join Sheela-Na-Gig at the good jugs.
F.A. Richard ‘Mosseee’ Moss, 18th October 2012.

Aces High *   6m   V3 [highball] or E3 5c [micro-route]   (25-06-2014)
Starting at the same point as
Sheela-Na-Gig and left of the large flake, climb the excellent steep wall, trending left via finger jugs to a sloping top out.
F.A. Tom Last (highball ground up), 25th June 2014.
NOTE: Tom Last comments: “I used four pads, but without I think it would merit E3. It’s excellent steep climbing, quite uncharacteristic of Luxulyan and rather reminds me of the Devon Sent boulder in Bovey Woods... Anyway; excellent, committing and steep moves to a sloping top-out.” It should be possible to find a video of Tom’s ascent here on Facebook.

This next one is on Carmears Rocks’ Main Buttress (page 202 in the definitive guide).
Denial Isn’t a River in Egypt   14m   E1 5a   (01-10-2012)
Serious and bold. Climb the chunky vein and slab right of
The Offwidth until a delicate move gains the last few moves of that route and a jungle finish. It would be possible to finish more direct if the rock, which is a bit dirty at present, were cleaner.
F.A. Richard ‘Mosseee’ Moss, Hannah Woolley, 1st October 2012.

A first pitch has been added to A Rainy Mile, Thinking of You (8m   E3 6a), which is on one of the outcrops below Carmears Rocks and described in the Recent Routes appendix on page 286 of the definitive guide. Instead of scrambling up the wooded slope to pull on to the belay ledge it is possible to climb up to it via the rock on the right. The description for this pitch is: “5a. Climb the cracks in the slab to a large flake and belay.”
F.A. Richard ‘Mosseee’ Moss, 6th April 2012.

Luxulyan Valley Quarry (Orchard Quarry)
The following climb is found on a slab situated at the far back left corner of the quarry, set higher up from the quarry floor and a good few metres to the left of the start of Big Mac [page 205 of the current guide]. A cluster of old nails wedged into a shot-hole marks the route. The slab is extremely kaolinised and the route, although still somewhat crumbly, is on the only decent bit of rock. [NOTE: This is known to have been climbed previously but left unclaimed. Other climbing is thought to have taken place on this slab in the past.]
The Downward Spiral   10m   E1 5a   (17-03-2014)
Climb the slab easily to the nails at half height then via a series of rockovers
and technical step throughs to the top, taking extreme care with the rock the
whole way.   (NP)
F.R.A. Tom Last (solo). 17th March 2014.
(Climbed solo after top rope inspection in summer 2013.)

Will Luke’s Hat
No additions since the last guide.
North Hill Wood Area
A number of boulder problems have been added here since the publication of the last guide (2012), the hardest of these to date being the highball Crystal Method V5 by Tom Last. Tom is currently compiling a guide to the bouldering in Luxulyan Valley that will also have details of newer routes. Hopefully we will have more information about this on these pages in the near future.
Carn Grey Quarry
No additions since the last guide.
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Gamas Point
No additions since the last guide.
Black Head
No additions since the last guide.
Blackbottle Rocks
No additions since the last guide.
Lantic Bay
There are two additions to the routes on Great Lantic Beach Rock (pages 242 & 243):
Dy’ Yow   10m   E3 5b   (11-07-2013)
The obvious solution for
Dy’ Gwener which takes the overlaps in the large rockfall scar. Start a day earlier. Follow Dy’ Gwener to a reasonable wire placement above its twin slate flakes. Step up right and over the first overlap (‘crucial’ RP0). Step up over the apex of the second overlap, then tip-toe a tiny foot-ledge leftwards to finish on dodgy holds on the arête.
F.A. Martin J. Crocker (unseconded), belayed by Jonathan Crocker, 11th July 2013.

There’s a Sea Louse in My Lettuce   11m   E1 5a   (11-07-2013)
A fine eliminate; the grade will be well felt given the run-out above half height. Climb the black slab left of the initial crack of
Sunkist to reach its footledge (place gear). Step left and then pad straight up the clean black slab to reach and follow improving holds in a sketchy crack. Pull over a small overlap to finish.
F.A. Martin J. Crocker, Jonathan Crocker, 11th July 2013.

NOTE: Martin Crocker comments: “Slate Flake seemed grim at HS 4b: HVS 4c?”
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Pencarrow Head
The following route on the Grim Reefer Wall (page 247) was climbed as a very bold deep water solo in order to access the top of the wall and the other routes. It may have been climbed before.
Totally Out of My Skull   10m   F6a+ S3.5   (07-2013)
Start at the overhung niche and non-tidal ledge at the right-hand end of the wall. Struggle up and left out of the niche on wafer holds; pretty damn dangerous given the ledge beneath. Follow a leftward-rising crack, soon out over the sea – thankfully – and gain the ledge at the exit of
In Cod We Trust.
F.A. Martin J. Crocker (solo), July 2013.

NOTE: Martin Crocker has suggested the following grade amendments to the other routes here – Grim Reefer and In Cod We Trust both F5+. The Long Drop is F5.
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Chapel Cliff, Polperro
No additions since the last guide.
Talland Bay
No additions since the last guide.
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Downderry Beach
No additions since the last guide.
Rame Head
The following route is on The Western Gear Pinnacle (guidebook page 261).
Keep On Lovin’ *   12m   E4 6a   (15-02-2013)
A fine pitch on great rock. Start midway between
An Golowji Koth and Framed at a rising quartz vein. Step up the vein and pull up to a break – good gear. A very thin move straight above reaches an incipient rising crack. Move up left (stainless steel peg); then carry on direct passing a couple of breaks to the top.
F.A. Martin J. Crocker (roped solo – with a Soloist), 15th February 2013.

NOTE: Retrieved (E1 5b) and Revived (HVS 5a) are both yet to have a lead ascent – we think. Pete O’Sullivan has said that he, with Iain Peters and Don Sargeant, definitely only did three routes here so if anyone has led either of these two climbs please let us know and the first ascents can be credited accordingly. Both routes were top-roped during the course of guidebook research so the grades should be accurate.
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Luxulyan Quarry (approximate grid Ref. OS Explorer Map 107 SX 054 590)
This is the large working quarry located just to the north of Luxulyan village itself i.e. not in Luxulyan Valley to the south. It is not to be confused with the quarries in the valley that are described in the current guide.
Although Luxulyan Quarry has been dormant since the late 1990s quarrying may resume here at any time.

The one route recorded here is not actually in the flooded quarry itself, but on a large
outcrop of natural granite at its western rim. It takes the steep face on the opposite side
from the quarry via the wide crack that splits the tor.

The Singularity ***   9m   E4/5 6a   (07-09-2014)
Climb the crack!
F.A. Tom Last (unseconded), belayed by Hernan Cardenas Ibanez, 7th September 2014.
Headpoint ascent.

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Greeb Point (approximate grid Ref. OS Explorer Map 105 SW 982 405)
This cliff is about a mile west of Dodman Point, just east of the beach at Porthluney Cove (seaward of Caerhays Castle). It is best approached from the car park at Porthluney Cove by following the coast path up the hill eastwards until the jagged spine of rocks forming Greeb Point becomes visible leading down towards the sea. Follow a faint path on the western side of the spine until near its base when crossing over the spiky ridge reveals the slabby crag just above sea level. (The ridge gives a good grade 3 scramble.) The area is affected by high tide and swell.
The one route recorded here so far takes a line up the right-hand side of the wall. The rock
is good but not above suspicion.

From the Delta to the DMZ   15m   Difficult   (12-08-2014)
Climb the most obvious break in the slabby right-hand side of the wall to a small depression,
then follow the flakes/groove to the top.
F.A. Tom Last (solo), 12th August 2014, climbed on-sight.

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