These pages are dedicated to
rock climbing in South East
Cornwall (see map).
This area is covered in detail by
St Ives Printing & Publishing’s
book Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers’ Guide (August 2012) by Barnaby Carver & Sean Hawken.
Cornwall is famous for its sea cliffs, with West Penwith being a popular destination for visiting rock climbers. However, it is in South East Cornwall that the widest variety of climbing styles can be found. Here challenging technical sport climbs and bold traditionally protected routes can be found side by side; adventurous sea cliff routes and more lighthearted deep water solos are on offer at the same crag; various natural inland outcrops provide climbing in a multitude of settings and on a range of different rock types; and there is bouldering aplenty on the high granite moors or balmy south facing beaches.
The major inland climbing venue is Cheesewring Quarry which has a Main Face that rises to 36 metres at its highest point. Home to nearly 150 routes, the quarry rivals more well known Cornish cliffs in terms of the sheer number of recorded climbs. Although it has a reputation for boldness there are many amenable lower grade routes on its smaller faces as well as a collection of high-quality sport routes in the F6a to F7c range. For these,
the smooth quarried granite provides a climbing medium that is almost unique in the context of British sport climbing.
Although far fewer in number and generally smaller, Bodmin Moor’s tors
are akin to those on Dartmoor and some of their routes can be regarded as true classics of granite moorland climbing. Additionally the ever increasing amount of bouldering on Bodmin Moor will surely earn the area wider recognition sooner or later. South East Cornwall also hides more peculiar natural outcrops such as those in the beautiful Luxulyan Valley and the popular and unusual Roche Rock.
The South Coast from Falmouth to Plymouth may be off the radar of most climbers but it hides major cliffs, such as those of Nare Head and Dodman Point, and a few delightful and welcoming beach venues like Lantic Bay with its pleasant low- to mid-grade slab climbing and Downderry Beach – home
to some excellent bouldering workouts.
On these pages can be found News, Articles and information on New Routes in South East Cornwall. The Guidebook page has details and reviews of the current definitive climbing guide for the area and you can also read about the Previous Guidebooks. Cheesewring & South East Cornwall can be bought directly from the publishers here.
Dave Henderson’s website – www.javu.co.uk – provides wider coverage
of climbing in the South West, while climbing guides to the neighbouring guidebook areas are published by the Climbers’ Club.